Kelsey & Associates, Inc.
"Preserving Architectural Heritage"

About US

NYC History

Baltimore History

House Histories

Façade Easements

Historic District Surveys

Cost

Free Estimate

Hopkins Map Sale


Books

Projects

Exhibits

Media Coverage

Television Appearances

Fun Facts

Home

 

 

 

 

By Paul Kelsey Williams

Photo Courtesy of Timberlane Woodcrafters

Some people will go to extreme lengths to research the original colors of their Queen Anne or re-create lost bungalow woodwork. Yet many of these same old-house devotees flunk the historical accuracy test when it comes to exterior shutters, installing the wrong shape and even mounting them backwards.

To avoid such blunders, it helps to review exactly what these devices were originally meant to do and how they're supposed to function and to revisit an often overlooked rule contained in the word itself-shutters should shut! Then you'll be ready for an analysis of your existing window openings for clues as to whether your house once had shutters and what you should look for in replacing them.

Shutters 101

Before window glass was available for every house, exterior wall openings posed a challenge. People needed shelter against inclement weather, privacy from nosy neighbors, and security against hostile natives. The popular and practical solution was to attach solid wood panels or framed wood slats to the sides (occasionally the tops) of the exterior window openings where they could be opened wide for maximum air and sun, closed tight for protection, or left somewhere in between. In summer they could block hot sunrays or the lashings of thunderstorms; in winter they kept out cold wind and blowing snow. When glazed sashes became more common, they also gave the glass added protection.

These panels and slats have been called shutters or blinds pretty much interchangeably since the founding of the country. Even Thomas Jefferson, in a 1796 letter, couldn't decide among shutters, blinds, Venetian shutters, and Venetian blinds. However, only "shutters" seems to have been used in describing a solid panel, and "Venetian" eventually attached itself to the popular interior treatment.

Styles and Hardware

The key to understanding how to properly size and mount shutters-whether you're re-creating long lost originals or repairing survivors found on site-is their historical functions, which in turn called for different styles.

On upper floors you'd be likely to encounter louvered blinds, which let in nighttime breezes. Solid shutters gave additional security to the first floor. Moveable louvers could be closed at night with a tilt rod, providing ventilation and privacy simultaneously. In some installations, known as Dutch shutters, the shutters were split so the lower half could be closed while the top half was left open; the room would have fresh air and infants were less likely to fall out or intruders to break in.

Although hardware varied in style and placement, all shutters required some type of hinge to allow them to move and a hook or "shutter dog" to keep them closed. (Often decorative, shutter dogs rotate to hold the shutter fast). A common hinge style was a strap-and-pintle, in which the metal strap pivots on an upright pin. Sometimes seen, although more common on interior shutters, were H and HL hinges, named for their shapes. Mortise hinges sometimes have a catch-and-release feature that locks the shutter open or closed and allows easy removal when it comes time to paint.

The shutter was hinged to the outside edge of the window opening in such a way that it closed into the window recess. Although shutters were most commonly paired on either side of the window, some were the size of the window opening itself and mounted only to one side. This might have been the case where a projecting architectural feature, such as a chimney, would interfere with a shutter on one side.

Awning-style shutters, mounted at the top of the window, were held open with a wooden dowel, protecting the interior from the sun even when the shutter was completely open. This makes them a popular style for subtropical areas, and they're sometimes sold under names like Bermuda or Bahama shutters.

The Missing Shutter

Some shutters came and went with the seasons, especially after the advent of storm windows. Photographs from the early 20th century showed that the shutters on my parents' 1891 upstate New York house disappeared each winter, with wood storms taking their place in the window recess. Presumably the owners did this to avoid having to close all 56 windows during a blizzard. Like robins, the shutters came back every summer.

If you're not lucky enough to locate vintage photographs of your own old house, you may still find evidence of old shutters, and what type they were, in and around your windows. If the top center of your window sill has one or two metal brackets or a recessed niche, chances are this was where shutters with hooks could be latched closed from inside the house. Similarly, look for holes or even hooks or catches on your exterior walls not far from your window sills. These would have been used to hold your shutters open. The most telltale sign would be hinge brackets or plates remaining on your window frame. You can also look for screw holes or a mortise where the hinge may have been removed long ago.

Irregular lines in the paint on your siding are additional evidence of shutters past. Once they installed permanent storm windows, homeowners grew less likely to close their shutters and the more lackadaisical didn't even bother to paint behind them. Dirt and leaves caught behind shutters for years may have also left their mark on your siding, and sun can fade siding color if your house hasn't been painted in a long time.

Replacing Shutters

Keeping in mind our rule that shutters should shut-whether or not you ever do so-you should use the window recess as your guide to selecting shutters of the appropriate size. A square peg doesn't fit a round hole, as they say, and square-topped shutters don't fit a rounded or even slightly curved window opening-perhaps the most common mistake. Shutters should be equal to the actual width and length of the window opening: not shorter, not taller, not wider, not narrower! So the shutters can close, or look like they can, they should be mounted with their hinges on the window-surround moulding, never on the house wall.

It's also important to match the original material of the shutters you're attempting to replicate. Plastic shutters won't fool even the most nearsighted observer; some with fixed molded louvers are one sided and can't be fastened to a hinge. Although most shutters were wood, metal was sometimes used in regions of extreme weather. Louvered shutters, whether of the movable or fixed variety, should be hinged to the window so the louvers angle down and away from the building when the shutters are closed, directing away rain and snow. This means that when your shutters are open, the louvers are angled toward the house. The bottom of shutters were usually beveled so that they matched the pitch of the window sill, closing tightly and keeping out water.

A Note on Color

Early architectural aesthetics often dictated dark colors for shutters. Replicating the dark void of the window opening maintained a similar appearance on all windows of a building when some shutters were closed and others were open. Color choices have changed with the generations, however, and your house may have had white shutters if built in the 1920s with a brick façade, maybe with a cutout such as a pine tree in the upper panel.

The shutters of your Queen Anne may have taken on painted-lady rainbow hues during the Victorian era. Some acceptable options in the 19th century included using a darker or lighter version of the house's body color or, a bit more daring, painting the rails in the house's trim color and the panels or louvers in its body color. If you want to be on solid, conservative ground go with green, which whether verdigris, forest, or hunter was pretty much a cliché throughout the 1800s. In fact, we could say that the case for painting old shutters green is pretty much open and shut.


Shutters, by George

A hurricane scare a few summers ago convinced staff at George Washington's Mount Vernon that the mansion's shutters, installed around 1880, "didn't serve their original purpose," in the words of Dennis Pogue, associate director for preservation. Ten pairs of the shutters are adjusted daily in spring and summer and did a yeoman's job of protecting furniture and textiles from sun damage, but wind and rain were another story.

All that opening and closing had skewed their alignment, and in addition, recent research had shown that their styles were inappropriate to Washington's lifetime. Around 1796, the former president had apparently started changing all the shutters from panels to the louver-style then becoming more popular. He failed to complete the task, however, so that when he died, those on the east front were still panels, rather than the louvers put up in the late 19th century. According to paintings of that time, he never had shutters on the second storey.

The hardware was all wrong as well. Examination of the window frames and stripping of the six surviving original shutter pairs showed that the louvered shutters were hung on strap-and-pintle hinges (see below) and the panel shutters on HL hinges (named for their shape) rather than the butt hinges then being used.

New paint was also in order. "Green" and even "verdigris" cover a wide spectrum, and simultaneous research at Thomas Jefferson's Monticello showed that since the verdigris paints of the 18th century tended to fade, the original green on both mansions' shutters was a much brighter hue.

Although the six original pairs had been stripped and stained many times, there was just enough original paint surviving in minute cracks to lend itself to color analysis by consultant Susan Buck.

It took about four months and cost about $65,000 to replace 24 pairs of handmade, heart pine shutters in the time-appropriate style with the correct hand-forged hardware. "People just assume that a place like Mount Vernon is static," says Pogue. "But as time goes on, we're often given opportunities to apply new research to make things even more authentic."

Suppliers

Kestrel Manufacturing
Custom-sized DIY shutter kits.
(610) 326-6679
www.diyshutters.com

REM Industries
Fixed and moveable louvered shutters.
(508) 393-8424
www.gis.net/~shutters

Timberlane Woodcrafters
Many shutter styles and shutter hardware.
(800) 250-2221
www.timberlanewoodcrafters.com

Vixen Hill Gazebos and Shutters
Cedar shutters in 14 styles.
(610) 286-0909
www.vixenhill.com

Withers industries
Custom shutters and hardware.
(800) 285-1612
www.withersind.com


Paul Kelsey Williams is president of Kelsey & Associates, Architectural Historians,
(202) 462-3389; washingtonhistory.com.



About Us
| NYC History | Baltimore History| House Histories | Historic District Surveys | Cost |
Free Estimate | Hopkins Maps
Old House Journal | Scenes From the Past | Books | Projects | Exhibits | Media Coverage | Television Appearances | Fun Facts | Home


(c) 2001-2009, Kelsey & Associates, Inc.
"Preserving Architectural Heritage"

1929 13th Street, NW
Washington, DC 20009
Telephone:(202) 213-9796, Email: info@washingtonhistory.com
http://www.washingtonhistory.com


Love My Old Home Webring
List Sites | Join |Prev |Next